Quest for 243

A global nomad's pursuit to see all 195 countries, 39 territories, & 9 de-facto nations

Fakarava Atoll: Bicycling & Snorkeling
on This Tiny Strip of French Polynesia

After exploring five volcanic islands with rugged terrain and high mountains, Mom and I got a change of scene today as we visited a flat-as-a-pancake coral atoll. I had a lovely 20-mile bike ride and went snorkeling at two locations. This evening we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Oceania Marina’s Asian specialty restaurant.

This is the first port of call on any of my 20 cruises where the cruiseline did not offer any shore excursions! I rented a bicycle for PF2,000 (US$19.09). Set off about 1:35 p.m. and cycled south. Rotoava soon faded away and I continued along the flat paved road amidst palm trees and a few spread-out homesteads, searching for a beach to snorkel at.


At Sea Day #2: A Sumptuous French Polynesian Feast

Got lots of work done and enjoyed an amazing French Polynesian buffet dinner as we spent this Monday at sea sailing from Nuku Hiva Island, where we spent the last two days, to Fakarava Atoll, where we’ll arrive tomorrow.


Nuku Hiva Day #2: Snorkeling & French Cuisine

I enjoyed a challenging two-hour snorkel swim this afternoon during our second day here in the remote Marquesas Islands. After a gorgeous sail-away and sunset, Mom and I experienced fine French dining at Oceania Marina’s Jacques specialty restaurant as we began the long voyage to the Tuamotu Islands.


Nuku Hiva Day #1: Hiking under a Brilliant
Blue Sky & Enjoying a Local Folkloric Show

The best weather yet on our trip, a 40-foot-tall tiki statue atop a hill that was the site of an early 1800s fort, an outstanding hike to a viewpoint overlooking a gorgeous bay, a delicious dinner aboard Oceania Marina, and an amazing local folkloric show by Nuku Hiva dancers and drummers – it all adds up to the best day so far on our cruise around French Polynesia.

Nuku Hiva, 127 square miles (a bit less than twice the size of the District of Columbia) is the largest of the Marquesas Islands, one of five archipelagos that make up the far-flung territory of French Polynesia. It has a population of 3,150. The island features Vaipol Waterfall, the tallest in French Polynesia at 1,148 feet.


At Sea Day #1: Voyaging from Bora Bora
to Nuku Hiva on Oceania Marina

After visiting four islands in the past five days, we got our first full day at sea today sailing from Bora Bora Island to Nuka Hiva in the remote Marquesas Islands. Spent most of the day working but took a two-hour break to swim and read.

This is the first time Mom and I have cruised with Oceania, which has a six-ship fleet. Oceania was formed in 2003 by cruise industry veterans Frank del Rio and Bob Binder, who continue at the helm today.


Departing Bora Bora Bound for Nuku Hiva

Oceania Marina sailed away from Bora Bora early this afternoon and we’re now en route to Nuka Hiva in the remote Marquesas Islands. Mom and I experienced a beautiful departure from Bora Bora, a quiet rest of the day at sea, and a fantastic Valentine’s Day dinner at the ship’s Italian specialty restaurant.

We had a wonderfully sunny early afternoon as we sailed shortly after 1:00 past Bora Bora’s outlying motus (islets), home of several world-famous five-star resorts with over-water bungalows. Mom and I sat on Deck 14 above the pool reading and taking in the scenery as Bora Bora faded from view.


Bora Bora: Island Tour +
Snorkeling with Sharks & Stingrays

Some call it the world’s most beautiful island. Hard to say if that’s really true, but I can express with certainty that Bora Bora failed to disappoint today as Mom and toured the entire main island by open-air truck; then I snorkeled a beautiful coral reef as well as swam with sharks and stingrays. A memorable day for sure.

Bora Bora, population 9,600, is known worldwide for its five-star resorts on islets surrounding the main island featuring hundreds of overwater bungalows. In the center of Bora Bora are the remnants of an extinct volcano rising to two peaks, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu. The latter is the highest point on the island at 727 meters (2,385 feet).


Raiatea Island: Traveling along French Polynesia’s Only Navigable River & Swimming at a Motu

Mom and I sailed along the only navigable river in all of French Polynesia during our shore excursion today here at our second port of call on our 12-night Oceania Marina cruise through this vast French territory in the South Pacific. We also spent an hour on a pretty islet full of white sand and palm trees.

Raiatea, population 12,000 and land area 65 square miles (similar in size to the District of Columbia), is the second largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti, where Mom and I spent five days prior to sailing yesterday to Moorea Island and onward today. Raiatea means “faraway heaven” and “sky with soft light.” It’s the homeland of the ancient Polynesians and the most sacred island in the South Pacific.


Moorea Island: Swimming with Sharks & Stingrays

I swam with sharks and stingrays in the gorgeous turquoise waters off Moorea Island today during our first port of call on our 12-night Oceania Marina cruise throughout French Polynesia. This is the closest to both marine species I’ve ever come and it was definitely exciting!

Moorea, population 17,230, covers 51 square miles just a dozen miles west of Tahiti in the Society Islands. The island’s name means “yellow lizard.” Samuel Wallis was the first European to sight the island in 1767. The major industries are pineapples and tourism.


Tahiti Day #5: Boarding Oceania Marina in Papeete

Mom and I are aboard Oceania Marina for a 12-night “Pure Polynesia” cruise to seven other islands in this French territory that covers a huge swath of the South Pacific Ocean. Oceania made a bad first impression after we embarked, not keeping the lunch buffet open later than usual and setting up our cabin with only one bed instead of the two instructed by our travel agent. Our balcony cabin, 8071, is a massive disappointment. We were expecting a much more spacious stateroom but instead found a room of similar size to lower-class cruiselines such as MSC, Costa, Norwegian, and Royal Caribbean. Oceania is a semi-luxury cruiseline – not quite on par with the likes of Seabourn and Regent Seven Seas but a notch or two above most American and European mainstream oceanliners.