Raiatea Island: Traveling along French Polynesia’s Only Navigable River & Swimming at a Motu

Our guide plays a flute-like instrument with his nose

February 12, 2019

RAIATEA ISLAND, French Polynesia – Mom and I sailed along the only navigable river in all of French Polynesia during our shore excursion today here at our second port of call on our 12-night Oceania Marina cruise through this vast French territory in the South Pacific. We also spent an hour on a pretty islet full of white sand and palm trees.

Got up at 10:36 a.m. and packed for our tour, “Faaroa River & Motu by Canoe.” Marina is docked today at Outuroa, the main town of Raiatea, the only island of our seven ports of call that we don’t have to anchor and tender.

Oceania Marina docked at Outuroa, Raiatea Island

Raiatea, population 12,000 and land area 65 square miles (similar in size to the District of Columbia), is the second largest of the Society Islands after Tahiti, where Mom and I spent five days prior to sailing yesterday to Moorea Island and onward today. Raiatea means “faraway heaven” and “sky with soft light.” It’s the homeland of the ancient Polynesians and the most sacred island in the South Pacific, according to Oceania Marina’s Currents newsletter. It has a sister island, Tahaa, slightly to the north. Both are surrounded by the same coral reef.

“Raiatea is home to Marae Taputapuatea, once the most important traditional temple in Polynesia, which many believe still exudes power today,” according to Lonely Planet. “What is undeniable is that the island emanates a hard-to-pinpoint, mysterious energy that you won’t feel anywhere else in French Polynesia.”

Known as Havaiiki Nui in ancient times, Raiatea is the cultural, religious, and historic center of the Society Islands. Capt. James Cook visited three times in 1769, 1774, and 1777.

“It was not until 1888 that the French attempted a real takeover of the island, and in 1897, troops were sent to put down the final Polynesian rebellion,” according to Lonely Planet.

We ate lunch in the Terrace Cafe, then stepped off the ship at 1 p.m. It was a short walk to our red motorized canoe, Hinatea.

Our motorized canoe at Outuroa, Raiatea Island

Our guide could have come right off a Polynesian tourist promotion brochure. Tattooed virtually head to toe, he wore a traditional red wrap called a pareu. He blew into a large seashell to signal our departure from the pier at 1:10.

Motorized Canoe from Outuroa to Faaroa Bay, Raiatea Island

He explained this custom announces to the land one is venturing to the sea and to protect the voyage so one may return safely.

We sailed along the northeast coast and then into Faaroa Bay, which leads to Faaroa River, the only navigable river in all of French Polynesia, passing the beautiful Iriru Motu (islet) on the left. We would visit Iriru Motu later.

Mom and I aboard the motorized canoe on Faaroa River

The Faaroa River is only passable by boat for maybe two miles before it narrows and becomes more like a creek. The water is surrounded by jungle, with palm trees lining its bank and all sorts of greenery farther back.

When we reached the river’s end, our canoe tied up with the second one on the excursion. The guides explained some of the island’s traditions and beliefs. We were then treated to the playing of several musical instruments, the most fascinating of which was a flute-like stick played through the nose.

Raiatea Islanders Play Traditional Instruments & Chant on the Faaroa River

Wow, I’ve never seen anything like that before!

Our guide playing a traditional musical instrument on Faaroa River — Our guide playing a traditional
musical instrument on Faaroa River

The kayaking tour passed us as we voyaged back to the bay and out to Iriru Motu, an uninhabited islet off Raiatea’s east coast.

Motorized Canoe Down the Faaroa River to Iriru Motu

Many of the islands of French Polynesia are surrounded by motus, which usually have the best beaches but few people reside on them due to the detachment from the mainland.

We pulled up to Iriru motu at 2:27.

I had about an hour to enjoy the beach and water. I snorkeled around the islet, with a stingray gliding past me near the end.

A Stingray Glides By as I Swim around Iriru Motu

Returned to the pier at 3:55 and returned to our cabin to shower and process today’s photos. I went up to the Horizons lounge at 5:30 for an LGBT get-together, which consisted of Ben of Manchester, England; assistant cruise director Jason, also of England; and myself.

Stepped outside an hour later to watch sunset.

Mom and I ate dinner at the Terrace Cafe buffet, which featured some outstanding choices incuding grilled lobster, jumbo shrimps, and stir-fried chicken and pineapple.

Salad and appetizers
at Terrace Cafe
Grilled lobster, jumbo shrimps, and stir-fried chicken and pineapple
Dessert

Back to the cabin to continue working on today’s pictures and pack my backpack for tomorrow’s early shore excursion on Bora Bora Island. We departed shortly before 11 p.m. for the short 23-mile voyage to Vaitape, Bora Bora’s main town. I’ll be doing a land tour with Mom in the morning, then snorkeling in the afternoon.